“She’s just so amazing,” said my Dad, Eugene, emotionally. “I know,” I replied, misty-eyed and with my fork paused in solemn reflection. “She’s the best thing that’s ever happened to Ireland, probably. Maybe even the world.”We were talking about Katie Taylor, as we were out for dinner the night before Katie’s fight for the Gold medal against The Russian. Everyone in the country seemed to be talking about her that week, with that nervous expectation that she might just be the one to bring home gold for Ireland. It was an emotional week. Grown men were crying and yummy mummys were familiarizing themselves with the vernacular of boxing pundits. It was kind of amazing.
We were eating in Seapoint Fish & Grill in Monkstown, just a few DART stops away from Katie’s hometown of Bray. At Seapoint Fish & Grill you’ll find the steadfast grill menu, with your burgers and roast meats, while a separate fish menu changes daily and leans heavily on what comes in from Wrights of Marino each morning. I decided to go for the Set Menu which offers two courses at €22.50 and three courses at €27.50, available for lunch from Monday to Saturday, between 6pm and 7pm in the evening and all day Sunday. Eugene ordered from the A La Carte menu which proved the Set Menu to have a great deal less of choice without a substantial saving on the bill.
From a choice of three starters, I went for the Mackerel Smokies which arrived as a ramekin packed full of wonderfully smoked mackerel in a slightly creamy tomato and fennel sauce. This little package was topped off with a delightfully crusty roof, with all the components working together when slathered on some warm sourdough bread. Eugene started with the Pulled Ham Hock Salad (€7.50), the rich chunks of tasty ham accompanied by crispy leaves and caramelized apple, all doused in a creamy sauce that never over-powered. A confident and no doubt well rehearsed start for this kitchen, I can imagine the smokies in particular being a popular choice for regulars.
My main of marinated salmon showed off this often poorly treated fish in its a very flattering light. Marinated in a sweet sauce, it had been grilled so that there was a blackened, crispy top that gave way to a perfectly flakey belly. I liked the mash that accompanied it but the mixed bean salad let the side down a bit, the green beans in particular being rather limp and pointless to the advancement of the dish. Eugene enjoyed his Fish & Fries (€17.50), but felt the fish lacked in flakiness. Eugene likened it to Donegal Catch. Which I doubt very much is what the kitchen was going for.
We shared a trio of the Fermanagh farmed Tickety Moo ice-cream for dessert, which helped us appreciate our coffees even more.
We had stuck with sparkling water for the night – in honour of Katie Taylor perhaps – but there was a supremely tempting and well put together cocktail list as well as a decent and accessible wine list to sway even the most dedicated of athletes. Our bill came to €60.70.
The owner Shane Kenny and chef Neil Clapham know they have fierce competition down the road with Avoca’s store and excellent restaurant Salt. Having visited and enjoyed both, if forced to choose I would go for Salt over Seapoint Fish & Grill as a Monkstown eatery, with the quality of food and atmosphere in Salt getting the Gold in my mind. If Salt was full (as it seems to be a lot) Seapoint Fish & Grill makes for an honourable Silver medal alternative for a dinner by the sea.
Seapoint Fish & Grill
4 The Crescent
Monkstown
Co Dublin
01-6638480
http://www.seapointrestaurant.ie/
