Highlights Food and Drink

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Food and Drink

Restaurant Review: Söder + Ko

We’re seated in a booth the front part of the restaurant, where the light reflects off the beautiful red brick building of George’s Street Arcade and spills back into this high-ceiling space. We’re watered and menued within minutes.

Restaurant Review: Camden Exchange

We freak out over our Gubbeen cheddar and chive croquettes. They’re so good! Little fried balls of cheese coated in breadcrumbs. Simple but decadent pub food. It looks like Camden Exchange really do want to feed us.

Soundbite: Sarah McNally Temple Bar Food Market

Sarah McNally’s parents began running the McNally Family Farm stall at Temple Bar Food Market when she was five years old and she has been immersed in its Saturday morning world ever since. As the market turns 18, Sarah chatted to us about the origins of Temple Bar Food Market, the range of producers involved and the vital ingredients that help make it so special.

The Long Table Supper for Marriage Equality

Walking into Martcade in Rathmines, we’re greeted by a hallway of jam jars filled with tea lights. We pass through an open kitchen area, where Jette Virdi, food stylist and the key thinker behind The Creatives, is working behind a four hob gas oven to cook a meal for the 18 gathered guests at an intimate supper in aid of Marriage Equality. Her signature red bandana holds back her hair while she caramelises the blood oranges for the starter that will kick off our six-course meal for equality.




Restaurant Review: Stanley’s Restaurant & Wine Bar

It’s the start of my meal in Stanley’s and the plate before me is a little intimidating. There are microgreens, ribbons of carrots. thin slices of radish, segments of clementine and dollops of a balsamic reduction. In the middle of all this is a wheel of a rabbit terrine coated with crushed pistachio and a quenelle of foie gras (€12). The terrine itself is exemplary and the foie gras suitably smooth, but I’m having a hard time enjoying them through the noise of the surrounding vegetables who are all vying for some attention.

Soundbite: Beth-Ann Smith The Lismore Food Company

Beth-Ann Smith and brothers Owen and Ken Madden, three artisans with impressive family lineages in food, have combined their collective experience to launch The Lismore Food Company. Based in the historic Waterford town, their new venture is located in The Summerhouse, home to the brother’s family business for almost two centuries. Beth-Ann talked to us recently about biccies, the beauty of a ‘hot orange’ eureka moment and Lismore’s connection to Boyle’s Law.

Barfly: Aja at J.J. Smyth’s

It’s nearly seven years since I’ve been to a gig in J.J. Smyth’s and, neatly, we’ve stumbled upon what is announced by lead singer John Graham as the seventh anniversary of Aja, Ireland’s premier Steely Dan tribute band. Jazz can at times seems cut off from the rest of the music going on around the city, and it’s hard to tell who is doing the cutting off at times. Either way, it’s well, well worth peering behind the curtain to catch this show.

Bitesize April 2015

In Totally Dublin’s Bitesize roundup for April: To Drink: Great Irish Beverages – Dublin Wine Fest, To Eat: Doughboys, To Try: Cocu, To Visit: New Carluccio’s in Glasthule

Barfly – Green Man Wines

Wine bars are hard to find in Dublin suburbs. The hallmark of your local is the quality of its black stuff and thus, the proliferation of Dublin’s wine offerings is mostly confined to the city centre, with a few outcrops in the wealthier suburbs (Ranelagh, for example) where reliable wine-quaffing clientele can be guaranteed. In a realm of craft-beer hocking establishments, the arrival of Green Man Wines on Terenure Road North is a welcome addition.

Barfly: Harry Byrne’s

There are few better places to sit than with your back to the fire in the left-hand bar of Harry Byrne’s, with its raised grate at waist height to spin heat into this stately room, chasing out any chills you might have brought in with you.

Barfly: Smyth’s of Ranelagh

If Smyth’s was a political party, it would be a populist one. It retains traditional values in its interiors and decor, but it also reacts and moves with the times, maintaining a younger feel in comparison to its more conservative neighbour.

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