Highlights Food and Drink

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Food and Drink

Neal from 101 Talbot

‘Because we change the menu every three to four weeks, and because there’s three or four other chefs in the kitchen there’s lots of ideas coming from every angle’.

Barfly: Johnny Rush’s

Far be it for me to suggest that a pub in Dublin embodies such a transcendent, absolute concept of pain, but if I had to approximate a correspondent bar in our nation’s capital to the idea of hell just outlined, it would almost certainly be Johnny Rush’s. ‘I liked it,’ says Anton.

Restaurant Review: Sova Food: Vegan Butcher

My vegan and vegetarian pals are always having to justify their food choices. ‘Why don’t you eat meat/cheese? Will you not have some chicken?’ It must be really tiresome. They also have to ask a lot of questions. ‘Do you use chicken stock in your vegetable soup?’ It must be a joyfully rare occasion to find a restaurant where it’s the omnivores who are asking the questions. ‘What’s tempeh?’ ‘How do you make a vegan béarnaise sauce?

Gearóid Carvill & Kieran Harnett Dublin Honey Project

Inspired by nature, craft and tradition the Dublin Honey Project aims to produce raw honey from each of the postcodes of the city. Founders, architect Gearóid Carvill and photographer Kieran Harnett, are united by shared beliefs in the importance of food provenance and supporting biodiversity in local food production. They talked to us about ‘tail-to-snout’ beekeeping, the health benefits of locally produced honey and the diversity of flavours emerging from the foraging efforts of Dublin’s bees.

Restaurant Review: Fish Shop

So what of the idea that Irish people just don’t eat that much fish? Fish Shop don’t take reservations; you’re encouraged to swing by and, if there isn’t a table free, head to Ryan’s next door or Dice Bar across the road until they call you for your seat. Both times I visited, there was a queue at the door of fish enthusiasts eager to join the waiting list.

Barfly – Mother Reilly’s

Ah, Rathmines, the suburb that never sleeps – a cultural melting pot to rival all comers. As one might expect from such a pulsating cosmopolitan hub there is no shortage of venues for one to quell a thirst. Even in this most competitive of quarters, there is one watering hole that stands above the rest; the peerless Mother Reilly’s.

Restaurant Review: Bread and Bones

Bread and Bones have thankfully moved their menu beyond the proliferation of pulled pork and slaw, and are instead catching up with the more internationally current trend of Asian influenced street food by way of ramen, bao (steamed buns) and kimchi.

 
 

Restaurant Review: Taco Taco

The flavours at Taco Taco have Garner’s stamp all over them. They’re powerful without being gratuitous, with an unfussy attention to detail that sees ingredients reach their full potential. For me, Taco Taco is leading the way in the current line-up of new spots to eat in Dublin. Let’s hope it’s here to stay.

Barfly – McCloskey’s

McCloskey’s is an outlier. It’s a haven of suburban traditionalism. Genuine, sometimes surly, profoundly unglamorous traditionalism. A standard-bearer for those kicking against the pricks who exalt gimmickry and tourist pandering, blarney bonhomie as the true the hallmarks of a ‘real’ Irish pub.

Barfly – The Beer Market

You can only order one thing in this place, and that’s beer. Not only that, but every single one of their twenty beer taps are on rotation. There’s no fixed drinks selection, or guarantee as to what you might find there on any given day.

Soundbite:  Rachel Flynn Bia Beatha 

Bia Beatha is a unique monthly Irish supper club devoted to the rich mythology and culture surrounding Irish food. Each month guests are treated to a delicious three-course meal with wine, live music and a fascinating talk on the history of Irish food by Irish culinary historian Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire. The venture is the brainchild of Rachel Flynn and we caught up with her recently to find out more.

Recipe: Roast Cod with Soft Boiled Egg & Salsa Glas

I love this recipe because it’s so versatile – serve it with toasted sourdough for brunch, with mash or colcannon potato cake for a hearty winter dinner or with a green salad for something more summery.

The salsa glas is a salsa verde made with Irish grown herbs and you can either make it in a blender or chop it by hand depending on what consistency you prefer. I like it chunky so do it by hand.

Restaurant Review: Söder + Ko

We’re seated in a booth the front part of the restaurant, where the light reflects off the beautiful red brick building of George’s Street Arcade and spills back into this high-ceiling space. We’re watered and menued within minutes.

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