United States of America’s Ambassador’s Residence, Phoenix Park
Built by Colonel John Blaquiere, 1776
Like many before me, I first came across the US Ambassador’s Residence while strolling through the Phoenix Park. As the open-topped tour buses whizz down Chesterfield Avenue, the lilt of an enthusiastic tour operator wafts through the air: “To your right, is Áras an Uachtaráin, home of the Irish president.” The bus stops momentarily at the spot where the house can be seen from the road and tourists hurriedly take their pictures of Ireland’s most prominent household. As the bus moves on and rounds the roundabout to make its way back to the city centre, the tour guide pipes up again; “and to your left, behind those great set of gates there is the Residence of the American Ambassador to Ireland”.
There are no such photo ops for what can be argued as Ireland’s second most important residence. In the absence of any visible tourist attraction, the tour guide dishes out a couple of fun facts; the house was built in 1776 – the same year as American Independence… rented from the government for $1 a year…
A quick wander around the back and a scurry through the bushes is rewarded with a small glimpse of the mansion. Although located in the centre of the Phoenix Park, the Ambassador’s House is an impenetrable fortress. Access beyond the gate is by invitation only.
Ah, but beyond the gates… a little slice of heaven! American opulence transplanted onto Irish soil. Over 60 acres of immaculately manicured estate surrounds the house, itself a neo-classical mansion painted in brilliant white. With over 28,000 square feet of floor space, the lower floor of the house includes a vast ballroom, reception and dining room, library, office, kitchens pantry, staff room and laundry. Upstairs are six suites, each with their own dressing room and bathroom and a grand sitting room overlooking the front lawn – which on the 4th of July celebrations is transformed into an American football field.
Not content with architectural grandeur, the residence has become home to a fine collection of celebrated contemporary American art. A recent renovation carried out by the former Ambassador Foley saw the halls and rooms decorated with pieces from Mark Rothko, Edward Hopper, Helen Frankenthaler and Sol LeWitt.
Before being leased to the United States by the newly formed Irish government in 1927, this home was during British rule the chief secretary of Ireland’s residence. While the role call over the years of former residents and guests is notable, many have called for the estate to become the permanent residence for the Taoiseach. This suggestion was finally put to bed when the government sold the property in 2013. Without a doubt one of most palatial ambassador’s residencies in the world, its location and grandeur symbolises the special position the United States has in Irish history.
Conor O’Brien is a member if respublica.ie, a collaborative group of architects with a shared interest in public space, modernity and the city. He currently lives in New York City and works for Balmori Associates Landscape Architects.
Words: Conor O’Brien / Photo: Bob T Golden
