Utilitarian crispness and undulating blocky shapes form the Edel Traynor collection for SS16. Edel, who cut her teeth at the Grafton Academy and assisting Danielle Romeril, has branched out to produce her own style of modern artful fashion.
So, why fashion design? And how did you get into it?
Initially I studied architecture, I was at DIT for nearly three years, but I always had a longing to do fashion design. I grew up in rural Meath, where it’s not really the ‘done thing’, so I started with architecture and then took a year out, and just decided that fashion was what I wanted to do. I had a sewing machine growing up, and my mother and my aunts all sewed and made things. So, I went to the Grafton Academy for three years. I chose there because they very much have a practical focus. I had learned a lot of design through studying architecture but I felt I really needed some skills to practically apply my designs. Throughout the summer I did internships with Alison Conneely and Kathy de Stafford in town, which is a bridal place, and when I finished up I went and worked with Danielle Romeril for three seasons. That was great, an all-round experience and a quite exciting studio. I finished up there in December 2014 and I could see that there were a lot of things happening in Dublin. I wanted to be creative and decided to start up my own label. I’m really enjoying it, particularly the designing and the making, but also, because it’s on a small scale, there are some practical elements that are a little bit boring like funding and planning. But seeing what you created being worn is a really amazing feeling, it sort of gives you a boost to get through those boring bits.
What were you looking into for your SS16 collection?
I started by looking at the artwork of Wesley Triggs and François Morelli, they’re very geometric abstract artists. Their lines formed the shapes in the garments and the mood of the collection was inspired by a young Patti Smith, just very relaxed and cool. I thought the structure and linear shapes, with her attitude was a nice little contrast. I used a really nice 100% cotton and a lamb’s leather, I love how fresh and crisp wearing cotton makes you feel. I like fresh colours, but I myself would wear a lot of black. When I’m designing I tend to think ‘fresher’ than maybe just designing for myself.
Could you tell us about your design process?
I will start by looking around me, usually going to IMMA and compiling imagery on the internet. I tend to save a lot of imagery, not even specifically for that collection, but for the future. I also look at people around the streets and get the mood from how I’m feeling, and put them all together and that would be my research process. I would go on to sketch and take elements from painters I like, it tends to mostly be artists that I’m inspired by. Then I’d start toileing up and it evolves from the design work. It’s nice to sew up a few designs and see how they’re working together, and at that stage of the making I would put a critical eye to it. That’s the most exciting part of doing a collection – seeing it come to life. We produce everything in Dublin, as it’s still small scale, I would work on the samples and toiles, but my machinist sews up all of the production. It’s easily contained at the moment which is nice because I get to have control over everything and be very particular.
Do you have any favourite designers or style icons?
In terms of designers, I like the new wave of London designers like Craig Green, who has a really interesting style, he has a great balance of creativity and conceptual work, and still manages to be commercial. I like Faustine Steinmetz for her technique and fresh colours. I guess these are designers that have a nice signature and know their brand. I think everybody loves FKA twigs, she’s got such a cool style that I think anyone would love to see her in their clothes.
What kind of woman do you see wearing your designs?
A girl who’s quite comfortable in who they are, that has a strong sense of their own style. I guess sometimes you can be surprised about who would buy your work. Sometimes you might have an image in your head of somebody, but they can be totally different and I like that. I like when they take it and wear it their own way. I guess somebody who appreciates good design, nice quality, and think that they can incorporate the piece into their wardrobe as a staple.
What are you working on next?
I’m currently working on AW16, so there’s going to be a little change-up and be much darker than previous collections. I’m looking at the photography of Sally Mann, the mood she creates in her work, so it’s going to be a bit more romantic. It will be a touch more feminine with some subtle beading. The darker nights allow you to dress up a bit and make a character for yourself.
Edel Traynor is stocked at Atelier 27, Drury Street, Dublin 2. You can see ore of her work at www.edeltraynor.com
Words: Honor Fitzsimons
