With close proximity to one ‘fashion capital’ and further proximity from the rest, despite our wealth of artisan makers and distinctive visionaries, Dublin is often seen to be at a bit of a loss when it comes to fashion and an even bigger one when it comes to an industry to accompany it.
Year in, year out, styles evolve, talents emerge, bars are set higher and higher. Yet despite success and advancement, continuous whispers of ‘what could be elsewhere’ are carried through the air. And, worse still, are often translated into some sort of warning sign to budding ambition.
The term ‘small but mighty’ is a garish cliché, but the arrival of three non-natives to the industry is not and is no coincidence either. Size may not be on our side but the scope to grow, evolve and improve is. From stateside to north of the border, three individuals tell their tales of scale, sincerity and surprise, a general insight into what it’s like for a nonnative to work in Dublin’s fashion industry.
Theo + George
“Dublin is a very young, very vibrant place to live” states Philadelphia native, Katie O’Riordan. Owner of the recently launched fashion brand Theo + George, Katie sings the praises of the Irish capital and its residents, labelling us “progressive thinkers”.
“Being the tech centre of Europe at the moment means that Dublin is becoming a melting pot. So many people here are open to changing the way that they think, changing the way that they do things, so long as there is a knowledge and education around it.” Education, she has found, is the operative word here, particularly when it comes to her own business, Theo + George.
The apparel brand, which Katie describes as a label that is a capsule collection for women on the go, is one which adheres to the rules of sustainability, though the rules themselves are not always clearly laid out.
“There isn’t a set guideline for sustainability so to speak. Whenever you’re creating new garments, you’re adding to the narrative. When setting up Theo + George originally, I had wanted everything to be produced here in Ireland, but it was extremely hard to scale the business that way and I had to look abroad.
I wanted someone to help me and was really fortunate to have a connection here, an American woman here in Ireland, who had just finished masters in sustainability. Lillian worked with me for six months and helped me discover what was the best way to go for the brand. We looked at everything from man made materials to organic, balanced everything out and got to where we are today. Conscious decisions are made on everything we make from the materials, down to the packaging, how we ship it and how we run our offices.”
When it comes to selling her wears to the Irish consumer, Katie noticed a real lack of knowledge around the ethos of her garments and brand. “Most of them are shocked to hear about the reality of the high street and really have no idea about sustainability. There are the few consumers who were really looking for something like this but a lot of them fell into it. They liked the design and style and were pleased to find out nature of our brand, it is a bonus for them. Still there are more and more people looking for this, especially the younger generation who are more aware of what’s going on and what’s needed to be done.”
For those still in the dark Katie says, “it’s been a really enjoyable process opening Theo + George here and starting the discussion, people in Dublin are so open to educating themselves. They are so surprised at how simple it is to recycle clothing, that it isn’t a massive lifestyle change and how small tweaks make big difference.”
Education being the operative word, Katie believes that if the landscape of ethical fashion is going to change within Dublin it needs to start with the consumer. “The consumer needs to be educated on what the reality is, at present there is a quarter of a million tonnes of waste in Ireland alone, every year. Until they realises this, there is going to be an issue.
From our standpoint, we want to teach our consumers how to wash their clothes, how to get longevity out of their garments, what to do when they want to get rid of clothes and how to recycle.”
Even if sustainability starts at home, in order for small, independent businesses like Theo + George to succeed, the Irish government needs to do their part too.
“Being American you are used to having so many things on your doorstep, especially when it comes to starting your own business, there are so many programmes, to support you. I’ll admit that I did find it quite difficult when I was first setting up here. It is very hard to find support for a fashion business here. Fashion is always deemed as such a risky business here, so many agencies wouldn’t even look at your business plan, simply because it was fashion.”
As a board member for The Council of Irish Fashion Designers though, Katie is immersing herself in change, one which she says is definitely visible since her arrival in 2014.
“With the council we’ve done a lot of summits and educated a lot of government agencies about what we do and how fashion designers are business people first as opposed to purely creatives. Through this we’ve seen a real turn around, over the last years, in terms of attitudes and support. No longer are people being pushed off at first sight because they are in the industry, now there are people at least willing to sit down and talk to you.”
Maya Brischle
“A little more variation and experiment wouldn’t go amiss.”
For Seattle-born fashion stylist, Maya Brischle, it is the willingness of the Dublin to sit down and talk, or stand up and network, that really gives the city its charm.
Since her arrival here in 2012 to study arts and Irish studies, Maya’s fashion related work has featured in a host of the country’s national publications and included styling a commercial campaign for Lennon Courtney.
“People are so approachable here, it is probably the nicest thing about Dublin. Yes it is smaller in terms of some opportunities but it is so much bigger in terms of others, such as networking.”
Maya touches upon a much mentioned affliction of the Dublin fashion industry, its size. Sometimes cited as leading to a lack of opportunities, the stylist sees beyond the sometimes uttered, blatant fact that Dublin is not London.
“There’s not as much red tape here as there is in other places. Dublin is accessible, if you want to work with someone or on something, the option is there.” Citing its size as a positive she continues “people get to know your reputation quickly, everything is heard through the vine here, Dublin is so communal in that way. Everyone knows everyone. It is helpful. People are helpful. They sing your praises. If you support them, they want to support you.”
Maya sees the current vibe in Dublin as one which has which has evolved with time. “Dublin has grown up so much over the last few years, I’ve enjoyed watching it.” With this growth she sees scope for more work for creatives to work in a very organic way.
“There are so many options for people here to explore their creativity in fashion. Dublin, to me, is the kind of place you can dip your toes easily and that’s all down to the people, their grace and way.”
While Dublin is so often praised for it openness in one sense, Maya touches upon an area where we are sometimes more reserved. “I sometimes find that Dublin is lacking slightly when it comes to diversity in fashion. I’m nearly always impressed by what’s on offer but I think that a little more variation and experiment wouldn’t go amiss. It goes down as far as the clothing that sells here. It is beautiful but there is a certain a conservativeness to it. It all seems very safe.”
When asked if Dublin was ready for a more diverse fashion scene, Maya seems certain. “There’s definitely a community here for it, it just hasn’t happened yet. There are people out there looking to identify with something that reflects them and their style, it just hasn’t been recognised yet.”
Ryan Alexander – IAM Models
“Dublin is having a real moment right now, it feels like it’s really emerging into a place of cultural freedom.”
“As a country, Ireland has so much success in art, in literature and in tech, it made no sense to me that the same success was not being had in the fashion industry.” For model agent, Ryan Alexander, it is exactly is lack of success that has brought him and his agency, IAM Models initially to Ireland and now to Dublin.
“I’m sure you’ve heard before the stereotype of how the Irish, particularly the Irish men, are extremely good-looking?” I hadn’t, but Ryan filled me in on the standard both he and his partner, Alex Duignan, had heard whilst modelling abroad.
Though new to me, it was this very idea that helped plant the seed of IAM. “Both Alex and I had worked for years in the fashion industry abroad, modelling in London, Milan and Paris. While we knew when moving back home to Belfast that the industry would naturally be on a smaller scale, when we actually we were completely stunned. We couldn’t believe the lack of representation of Irish talent.”
Having worked with international agencies, publications and clients, Ireland natives, Ryan and Alex, were, themselves, examples of the stereotype in question and felt sure they could unearth others like them. In 2016 they opened the doors to IAM Models in Belfast and, within a short time, found what they were looking for.
“The response to the agency was amazing and far bigger than we ever expected. We had underestimated how much Irish people talk and how quickly the word can spread over here. In the first two weeks we received over 1,000 model applications, it was just as we thought – the demand was there to represent Irish talent and we were ready to represent it.”
Over the next year and half Ryan and Alex built the agency up to a total of just under 30 not so stereotypical guys and girls of ethereal and unique beauty, who began booking work both locally and further afield. After the short space in time they set their sights south of the border and, last month, opened up the Dublin branch of IAM.
“We love Dublin and it’s definitely always been in our minds that we would at some point be making our way here, we just hadn’t expected it to be so soon. We have a lot of Dublin talent on our books and 80% of our clientele are from Dublin so it will be great to nearer to that buzz. Dublin is having a real moment right now, it feels like it really emerging into a place of cultural freedom. Finally you can see it come out of the last of its oppression, it’s a really exciting atmosphere to be part of.”
Aside from uncovering new talent and new opportunities, Alex stands firm with an expression of fondness for the city itself, when asked about expectations for the move and brand opening.
“The most exciting thing about coming Dublin is the attitudes of the residents. There is a profound sense of people of people wanting what’s best for the city down here, meaning they are keen to see businesses succeed. It’s a rarity and something, I feel, can only be found in Dublin.”
Words: Sinead O’Reilly
