The name of the drink which, for many of us, conjures up immediate feelings of terror and blurry memories of painful hangovers – vodka – comes from the seemingly innocent Russian word for “little water”. The basis of many cocktails, vodka is now the most popular spirit in the United States; but the distilled product of fermented potatoes, grains or sugar has in reality been central to the drinking culture of many Northern European countries since the 14th century, from Sweden to Poland to famously, of course, Russia.
Like other stereotypes about Russia (bears roaming the streets, the perennial snow), the country’s obsession with vodka contains at least some element of truth. In Russian consciousness, vodka has always been more than just a drink: it is part of a peculiar tradition rooted in the country’s history, and one that is still a cherished as an inherently Russian custom. Throughout the centuries, vodka has made several appearances at all levels of society, from the aristocratic salons of Anna Karenina to the dregs of society of Crime and Punishment. Ever-present, and always the source of both the highest ecstasy and the lowest despair, vodka was the common denominator between peasants and tsars; although it was abolished for a short while in the name of the new Bolshevik state, it later became the symbol of Stalin’s gratitude to his troops during the war, when soldiers were provided with 100g of the pure stuff a day.
Today, the tradition lives on. From the glitzy bars of the capital to the wooden taverns of Siberian villages, vodka is still central to any event, be it a wedding or a funeral, and remains the most reliable source of support during the endless, dark Russian winters. Usually accompanied by pickles or dried herring, as well as joyful toasts to friendship, health, and the motherland, shot glasses are continuously refilled until the bottle is empty (many bottles are indeed designed to prevent re-corking, with the foreseeable consequences). The prices are low, and the quality is generally high, which makes Russian vodka drinking a much less painful experience than knocking back the more expensive but less refined spirit that is usually found in European supermarkets. In fact, many Russians find the Western habit of diluting the spirit with various soft drinks rather confusing: why mess with perfection?
However, it is important to remember that vodka-drinking is, to the majority of Russians, a predominantly social activity: drinking alone is considered a clear sign of alcoholism, and is widely frowned upon. Many women also prefer to sip on their sugary “Soviet Champagne” instead of engaging in the men’s munching on dried fish and endless toasting. But the tradition is generally respected as an integral part of Russian life, and quickly embraced by visiting foreigners: indeed, few other gestures are as effective in demolishing what is left of the Iron Curtain as an East/West toast to mutual health and happiness.
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1) Moscow-Petushki by Venedikt Erofeev (Northwestern University Press, 1992)
A postmodernist prose poem by Soviet dissident Venedikt Erofeev, Moscow-Petushki tells the vodka-drenched tale of an alcoholic intellectual travelling on a suburban train to visit his son in the suburbs of Moscow; while getting drunker at every station, he muses about Soviet politics and philosophy, as well as the necessary relationship of the Soviet citizen with alcohol. A harsh but fascinating masterpiece of 1970s Soviet literature.
2) Vintage Cocktail Club, 15 Crown Alley, Dublin 2
A wonderful, hidden, classy cocktail bar with an extensive bar menu that includes the finest vodka around, in a secluded 1920s setting. Dim lights and strong drinks – this is what the last days of the Russian Empire must’ve felt like…
3) Who Really Invented Vodka? (Vice Documentaries)
The Vice team travels to the front lines of the Vodka Wars and discovers that the tortured history of Russian-Polish relations is also reflected in the controversial question of the drink’s origins. Includes a visit at the Vodka Museum in Moscow and some hilarious gems of Russian pride by various interviewees, and is easily found in 2 parts on YouTube.
Words: Laura Gozzi (@_laura_tweets)
Illustration: Fuchsia Macaree
