We’re sitting outside That’s Amore and, if I lean far to the right, beyond the houses and down a street straight ahead of me I can see the sea. Just a sliver. It’s not quite The Amalfi Coast veranda viewed restaurant I’ve been craving, but That’s Amore has won my heart (sorry).
We’ve taken the DART out with my dog Daffodil, following the scent of this authentic Italian serving real food in Monkstown village. It’s a tiny place, seating no more than 20 people. When I walk in the door, it reminds me of my first trip to Naples where I was almost overwhelmed by the pace and craziness of the city. This small restaurant is vibrant and sparkling, with the chatter loud and the kitchen pass a congregation area for staff to take a break from this high-energy atmosphere. If it weren’t for the nice weather (or the dog), we would have loved to be sitting right in the middle of it all.
Outside, we eat Crostini alle Alici (€6.95), a plate of toasted bread with puffy, golden and stringy mozarella topped with salty anchovies while a pile of unfamiliar salty greens resides on the side. I believe they might be agretti, an Italian cousin of samphire. It’s a tasty little starter and a sign of the simplistic accomplishment to come.
We adore our Carpaccio di Pesce Spada (€10.95), a smoked swordfish plate heaped with rocket, sun-dried tomatoes and olives finished with a thick drizzling of balsamic vinegar. The smoked swordfish is lighter, and perhaps even more delicate, than our beloved smoked salmon and it evokes the uncomplicated success of what to my mind is a true Italian dish: great ingredients given room to show off.
The Capricciosa pizza (€14.95) is a beautiful beast of a pizza. Quite possibly the biggest we’ve ever been served, it’s a gargantuan plate of crusty base piled high with Parma ham, artichokes, eggs and olives. We surprise ourselves by eating the lot. A plate of Tortelloni salsa rosa (€14.50) is more dainty in size but not in flavour. A rich, creamy tomato sauce coats the fat, plump parcels of pasta stuffed with spinach and it competes on an equal level with the pizza.
The owners Silvia Leo and Marco Valeri are on the floor working the restaurant along with our adorably slouchy Sicilian waiter and the rest of their kitchen team. They’ve had a long, busy Sunday but they’re brimming with welcome for us and pride in their food. Our Sicilian waiter naturally recommends a glass of Sicilian wine (€6.90) which goes
Our bill, which includes sparkling water, a slice of tiramisu and two cappucinos to go, comes to €68.30. With our tiramisu and coffees in tow, we take a walk along Seapoint with Daffodil leading the way. The view out beyond The Pokers towards Howth Head makes for a memorable backdrop to our creamy, boozy tiramisu, eaten greedily out of our take-away box. It’s not The Amalfi Coast but our coast has its own beauty. If you lean a little to the right on a sunny summer evening with a box of tiramisu in your hand, you just might get that holiday feeling in your very own city.
That’s Amore
107 Monkstown Road
Monkstown
Co. Dublin
01-2845400
www.thatsamoremonkstown.ie
Words: Aoife McElwain / Photos: Mark Duggan
