I do love to be beside the seaside. One of my favourite coastal activities that makes Dublin a city of many refuges is a day trip to Bull Island. A fifteen minute drive from the city centre to Clontarf village brings you to the long pier that leads you to one of our lovelier city beaches. It’s quite a recent and somewhat accidental island, built over the 19th Century by Dublin’s powers-that-be trying to sort out the Dublin Bay sift problem from the mid-1700s. The British Army took over the whole island in 1914 for military training and particularly trench warfare. The 1980s saw the development of a nine-hole golf course while the last decade or two has seen it being commandeered by dog-walkers and kite-surfers.
After all that walking in the bracing wind and echoes of history, you’ll be hungry. Good thing then that you’re just another short walk away from Bay. Run by sisters Niamh and Sinead Costello, this spot prides itself on being the first restaurant in Ireland to display dietary, nutritional and calorie information on their menus. It’s a long menu, which always makes me nervous. Why so long? Is it to cover up the mediocrity of the food with an abundance of choice? As my friend Frances and I watched our fellow diners plates coming out, we figured this was not the case. Everything looked good.
As I contemplated the calories proudly listed on the menu, the foolish rebel in me ordered the most fattening dishes on the bunch. My rabbit liver pate (€7.95) was on special that evening and the rich, creamy meat butter was a luxurious spread for the homemade fennel brown bread and accompanying rhubarb chutney. My fish and chips (€15.95) that followed were up there in my top three best fish and chips of ALL time. A dark, crispy batter with not a leftover smidge of grease to be found with controversially skinny fries on the side would be a welcome treat after an afternoon’s walk on the beach. Frances, perhaps influenced by the nutritional information, went for the lighter options of Chermoula prawns (€7.95) and baked trout (€15.95). The prawns were crazy tasty while the baked trout was light, fluffy and flavourful which she balanced well with a crispy green salad (€3.50).
We shared a banoffee pie (€6.95) which was delicious once we waded through the mounds of cream that were smothering it. We shared a carafe of decent French Viogner (€14) and an after dinner coffee (€2.90) brought our bill to €75.15.
The service is with a smile but it’s brusque, no doubt necessary in a spot as buzzing as Bay. It’s small with exuberant decor that makes it feel busier still. If you can find a seat, that is. Whether it’s brunch, lunch or dinner you’re looking for after a walk out to Bull Island, you’ll need to book ahead.
367 Clontarf Road
01-8532406
http://www.bay.ie/
