New York City has long been the undisputed king of cocktails, but these days, even your local Dublin dive could give some NYC stalwarts a run for their money. On the Irish bar scene there has been a changing of the guard. Yes, there are bastions of culture, like the Long Hall, the Lord Edward, and Grogan’s, that stand like monuments to where we have come from, but the new Irish bar has been spiced up with a touch of diversity and, dare I say, whimsy in its menus.
Dublin, traditionally a beer and whiskey town, has undergone a seismic shift. These new joints focus on craft beer and craft cocktails, often highlighting the untapped potential of Irish spirits. Think Bonobo, Fidelity, 1661, Kodiak, Riot, Jackie’s, and Big Romance – all new locally-owned and operated bars with a penchant for all things Irish and each with a solid, unique cocktail list. For the first time, Dubs are opting for cocktails over pints, partly because the price of a Guinness has skyrocketed (but I’ve already waxed lyrical on that one earlier this year).
Over a decade ago, a “cocktail” in a pub was a shot of gin with tonic on the side. But post-2008 financial crash, the old rules of business crumbled. Formal dining collapsed as patrons craved value over flash. People became pickier about their spending with lighter wallets, and the same old pints weren’t cutting it.
Enterprising bar and restaurant owners upped their game. They reinvented their concepts to encourage people to come out and people who trained abroad brought a new skill set back to Ireland. Advanced culinary techniques typically seen used in the world’s best bars were harnessed and brought to light thanks to bar luminaries such as Dave Mulligan of Bar 1661 and cocktail consultant Andy Ferreira of Raise The Bar returning from stints in London and NYC.
Whiskey’s resurgence is a major player in this evolution. With all the money being pumped into developing our national spirit, it was bound to become a major part of the bar scene here. It just hit differently than we expected. Yes, whiskey bars emerged where you could get a dram of the best and brightest, but then whiskey also began to feature in cocktails—something that had long been seen as some sort of sin with the old guard.
There is also a social aspect to this new dawning. For a long time, Ireland, unlike most European and American cities, has tended to look down on service as a ‘bad’ job. Maybe with the notable exception of being a sommelier at a high-end restaurant like Chapter One. But in general, it was not regarded as a respected career. Something has changed in that regard with this new crop who look on this as a career. There is upskilling, training, education, upward mobility, and even a living wage. This means that the staff can take pride in their work and help create a better experience for all.
As with all things these days, the role of the internet and social media in general cannot be overstated. Seeing what people worldwide were doing with their bars and drinks has inspired. Bartenders are reaching for the proverbial stars and building relationships with like-minded people in their extended global community. This cross-pollination is often quite public and draws people into the lore of the businesses and the servers themselves.
The Sidecar Bar in the Westbury Hotel showcases this trend, where skilful bartenders themselves are the attraction. They hosted the Dead Rabbit for a five-day pop-up in 2017, sowing the seeds for BAR 1661 to do the same in 2023. Virtually every distillery in the city now offers cocktail classes. Patrons love watching their drinks being created, and bartenders have become stars with their mixology skills and engaging banter.
As drinking venues evolve, so do the drinkers. Customers are more open to trying new things, especially if it looks good on Instagram. Unlike the stuffy cocktail bars in NYC and London, Dublin’s new wave of cocktail bars retains that laid-back vibe.
The craft cocktail craze has transcended Dublin, yet it hasn’t killed the easy-going charm of our bars. While you may sometimes need a reservation for larger groups mostly if you hit up these bars you’ll get the warm, chatty welcome that defines Ireland’s best pubs in this new breed of bars. Irish folk loathe pretension, but somehow, we’ve crafted bars that combine elegance with a down-to-earth feel.
In 100 years, will these bars be the ones people seek out to soak up Irishness, or will they fade into the ether of trends that once were? It’s hard to tell, but they feel like they represent Dublin as she is now, and that tends to have longevity.
Words: Shamim De Brún
