There’s a certain magic woven into the very fabric of Dublin—a blend of history, camaraderie, and an unspoken understanding that some things are meant to endure. Step off the cobblestones of Fleet Street into The Palace Bar, and you’re immediately embraced by this. The air is rich with stories, the kind only a 201-year-old pub can hold. Behind the bar you’ll find Willie Aherne, the third-generation proprietor, his eyes reflecting both the weight of history and the spark of innovation.
“The soul of the place—that’s what we’re preserving,” Willie tells me, when I finally catch him after two weeks of near misses. Quick off the bat he hits me with one of many beautifully succinct lines, saying, “We’re not just serving drinks; we’re keeping a tradition alive.”
Established in 1823, The Palace Bar is a Dublin institution. Its Victorian façade, adorned with stained glass and gilded mirrors, invites you into a world where time seems to slow down. Inside, the high ceilings stretch above a narrow room lined with dark wood and the soft glow of antique lamps. It’s a place where conversations flow as smoothly as the Guinness.
Willie’s family has been stewarding The Palace since 1946, when his grandfather, Bill Aherne, purchased the pub for what was then a staggering £26,500. “People thought he was mad,” Willie chuckles. “But he saw the value—the heritage.” Bill’s decision to maintain the pub’s original features, even as others modernised, was a bold move that has paid dividends for generations. “They were putting down carpet in pubs, Formica counters, taking away snugs and gilded mirrors,” Willie explains. ‘They knocked down many of them too, calling it ‘modernisation’ … My grandfather decided to stick with tradition.”
Growing up, Willie was steeped in the rhythms of pub life. “I remember coming in as a young fella, washing bottles, cleaning the shelves,” he recalls. “It’s in my blood.” Today, he carries forward the legacy with a careful balance of reverence and adaptability. Palace Bar is wildly known as a whiskey bar and boasts over 400 varieties, including their own limited editions. Reviving the tradition of having their own whiskey label—a practice that died out in the early ’70s—was a point of pride. “We were the first pub to revive that tradition since the early ’70s,” Willie says. Like the acclaimed Palace Bar Redbreast 17-year-old cask strength, their exclusive releases have whiskey enthusiasts buzzing.
The Palace Bar has long been a haven for writers and artists. Literary giants like Patrick Kavanagh, Flann O’Brien, and Brendan Behan once held court here. Michael Collins is said to have frequented the snug so often Willie says he called it his ‘office’. “If the walls could talk, they’d reveal a lot,” he muses.
Yet, Willie is acutely aware that maintaining such a storied establishment in modern times isn’t without its challenges. The rise of corporate-owned pubs threatens the soul of Dublin’s pub culture. “I think it’s very important that you have your bread and butter—your regulars, your Irish clientele.” He views tourism as “a bonus” though and not a hindrance. However, the same can’t be said for some Irish ‘professional pint reviewers’. Willie remembers they were barely open a wet day after the lockdown, and a digital reviewer came in to review the pint and slated it, which felt unfair, considering they’d only been back open a few days and hadn’t had time to settle in again. The pipes were still getting used to being used again.
While tradition is paramount, Willie understands the need to evolve. Noticing a shift towards health consciousness, The Palace Bar began offering non-alcoholic options. “Moderation has come into it a bit,” he notes. The pub now stocks Peroni Zero and alcohol-free ciders alongside its extensive whiskey collection. “I must say, I’m really surprised how well the Guinness Zero goes here. You have to evolve with your clientele.”
Willie also applies this to his management style. When staffing posed post-pandemic challenges, Willie introduced a four-day work week to retain staff and improve work-life balance. “You have to look after and be flexible,” he emphasises. “People like to see familiar faces behind the counter.”
Community is the heartbeat of The Palace Bar. Willie passionately advocates the importance of family-run pubs in maintaining the city’s character. “You can’t beat the feel of a family pub,” he asserts. There’s a personality there—a recognizable face.” He laments the rise of investment funds and corporations buying up traditional pubs. “A lot of them are soulless,” he says plainly. “I personally love calling into (public) houses where there’s a personality, or you know the owner’s family.”
When asked where he drinks when he’s not at The Palace, Willie lists other traditional pubs—the Swan, Mulligan’s, Neary’s. “I love the old houses,” he smiles. “Any of the good traditional houses around the city.”
As our conversation winds down, the afternoon sun casts a warm glow through the windows. “At the end of the day, owning a pub like this, you’re not just a businessman; you’re a custodian of culture,” Willie reflects. “We have such a great city—you just have to constantly mind it.”
For Dubliners and visitors alike, The Palace Bar offers more than just a pint—it offers a slice of history, a place where the soul of the city is poured into every glass. And as long as guardians like Willie stand behind the bar, that legacy is in good hands.
Words: Shamim De Brún
