Words: Jocelyn Doyle
Ahhh, November. The nights are getting longer, the wind is getting colder, and it’s getting that much harder to drag ourselves out of the bed in the morning. It’s not all blustery rain, however, and this month does have one cracking thing going for it: It’s game season, baby.
For those of us who find a simple, primal pleasure in carnivorous delights, nature has a whole load of goodies in store. Right now is the season for delicious wild Irish birds like wood pigeon, pheasant, teal, mallard, widgeon, woodcock and more; it’s also the time for a pantry full of other meaty morsels, like rabbit and hare, and November 1st sees the beginning of our biggest venison season.
Fallow deer have been living right here in our own Phoenix Park since its creation in 1662, and were in fact the very reason for its original development as a deer park for King Charles II. The current herd is directly descended from the first deer brought into the Park and, in the absence of any remaining natural predators (like wolves or bears) it is kept strong and healthy by means of an annual cull. Good and well-planned culling is important, preventing health problems caused by unsustainable growth levels in the herd, and here in Ireland we do it well, with an attitude that has nothing to do with trophy hunting. Ireland’s strict licences clearly dictate what months males and females of different breeds can be culled in, and November is peak season here in the Dublin/Wicklow area. Having a controlled game season is hugely beneficial for the herds of deer, but it’s also good news for us, giving us something to look forward to as the days drift into gloom and grey.
This is a great time of year for Irish restaurants, and game will be featured on many a menu from now until January. This year, Dax has wild Irish teal and Wicklow venison loin on the menu, and wild game pies are a particular favourite in many establishments. The King Sitric out in Howth, usually specialising in seafood, even goes so far as to include an entirely separate menu devoted to wild game, featuring wild duck, pheasant and of course venison. If you’d like to learn to cook game at home, however, there are several upcoming classes dedicated to teaching just that.
On the morning of November 12th, The Butler’s Pantry are hosting a cookery class based on wild game, out in CityWest. The class is called “Wild Game: Chef and Hunter,” and aims to showcase the best of the Irish game season from both perspectives (€25, or €40 for two people.) Meanwhile, the Dublin Cookery School is running a similar “Masterclass on Game Cooking” on Wednesday November 20th, taught by Stephen Gibson of Pichet fame. This class aims to make the most of the wonderful wild game we have here in Ireland, and “perfect for those wishing to learn new recipes for game and also those who are interested in discovering the wonders of wild seasonal food.” (€70.)
If you fancy getting out of the city for a day, the BrookLodge Hotel in Wicklow hosts regular dedicated wild food master classes. There’s also a Wild & Wicklow Dinner down there this November 16th: the evening will open with a Wild Foods “Dinner Dissected” Master Class, continue with a cocktail reception (all drinks made using wild berries), and culminate in a seven-course meal based entirely on wild foods harvested over the past twelve months.
Alternatively, you can always go and have a chat with your butcher, and see what he has on offer. Ed Hick (our favourite fourth generation pork butcher from Dun Laoghaire) is working his usual magic at the Temple Bar Food Market every Saturday, with both furred and feathered game including venison sausages, warming goulash and his latest wacky invention, Venison Jam. (If you haven’t tried his Bacon Jam yet, put it on your to-do list. And then do it. Immediately.)
For home cooking, venison makes for an amazing, hearty stew – or pop a pastry lid on top and fill your britches with a venison pie. The below is my slight adaptation of Jamie Oliver’s Venison and Wild Mushroom Stroganoff, a warm and hearty venison stew ideal for cold, dark winter nights.
Venison and Mushroom Stroganoff
(Serves 2, but is easily doubled.)
Grab these:
- Extra virgin olive oil
- 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped
- 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely sliced
- 300g venison loin, trimmed and sliced into finger-sized strips
- Salt and black pepper
- 1 tablespoon paprika
- 250g mixed mushrooms (wild if you have them), wiped clean and roughly chopped
- 1 large knob of butter
- 1 decent glug of brandy (or whiskey, or red wine)
- 130ml crème fraîche
- 1 handful of fresh parsley leaves (optional)
Now do this:
Heat a large frying pan on a medium heat and pour in a fat glug of extra virgin olive oil. Add the chopped onions and garlic, and sauté for about 10 minutes until they’re soft and golden. Pop the onions and garlic out of the pan and on to a plate, and keep to one side.
Season the meat well with salt, pepper and paprika, and massage into the meat with your hands. Place the pan back on a high heat and splash in a little more olive oil. Pop in the mushrooms, and fry them for just a few minutes, until they start to brown. Then add the meat and cook for two minutes before adding the cooked onion and garlic. Stir it all together and then add the butter and brandy. Adjust the heat if necessary, so that everything is simmering nicely.
After a couple of minutes, stir in the crème fraîche and season to taste. Continue simmering for just a few minutes, but don’t give it any longer or you’ll be chewing through pointlessly-tough venison: it should be tender and pink. Pour it into some nice big bowls, sprinkle over some roughly chopped parsley if you like, and serve with some nice buttery mashed potato or root vegetables.
