The corner of Dame Street where The Mermaid and Gruel used to reign supreme laid depressingly bare for almost two years, so when Beirut Express opened in The Mermaid’s beautiful old home I’m sure I wasn’t the only one to have mixed feelings about it. On the one hand, it is a relief to see food being produced there again. But could it hold its own against the food memories in these rooms?
Beirut Express proprietors Irene Monaghan and Ali Mokdad recently opened the Mama Roma Pizzeria in the spot that used to house Gruel, as well as Mezze Cuisine on Parliament Street, also serving Lebanese fare. Myself and Totally Dublin arts editor Rosa Abbott went for a feed on a cold Thursday in January to see if Beirut Express could fill some rather large culinary boots.
Starters dominate on Beirut Express’s menu, with old favourites like hummus and tabouleh sharing space with the less common Ferri dish of quails grilled in pomegranate juice. The Vegetarian Set Menu for Two seemed to us to be the best way to stuff our faces full of starters, indulging in a main course each, and having our cake and coffee too for just €38.50.
Our table was soon covered in small plates, making good use of the table for four the two of us were at. We made our way through Batinjan Al Rahib, a lighter version of Baba ghanoush that was heavy on the lemon juice with crunchy smattering of pomegranate seeds for texture and prettiness. There wasn’t enough of the Rikakat Jebne, so delicious were these filo wrapped straws of sweet cheese we hankered for more. Two dishes didn’t arrive as described on the menu, with grape vine leaves being replaced with tasty spinach pastry parcels and the Loubieh B’Zeit being a plate of okra and not French beans soaked in a rich, tomato sauce. Everything was paired with our Fatoush salad and Labneh, while our additional order of creamy hummus (€4.50) was mopped up with homemade Lebanese flatbread. The meat fix was provided by Sambousek Lahme (€5.30), hearty pastries stuffed with flavoursome lamb mince and deep-fried. And that was just the starters.
The Mousakat Batinjan main course of well-baked aubergine in a sweet tomato sauce would have been devoured with more fervour if it hadn’t been for the layer of unwanted oil accompanying it. The falafels delivered on texture but disappointed on taste, feeling under seasoned and lacking in punch. We were truly stuffed by the time our Baklava arrived but managed to put away a few of the sweet, bought-in pastries as we supped our respective well-made espresso and fresh mint tea. The food fuelled chats about Irish national holidays, Yorkshire’s Ossett Brewery and the upcoming launch of Rosa’s clothes shop (plug) The Revolver Project in The Twisted Pepper.
We visited just before Beirut Express received its wine license, meaning a €3 corkage and our own bottle of wine kept our bill down to a €53.10. Although it didn’t reach the culinary heights set by The Mermaid and Gruel in their heyday, we loved the service and enjoyed the food. Beirut Express lacked in atmosphere, with only a few tables occupied and a definitive lack of buzz in what was formerly such a thriving room. Perhaps we could put that down to the cold, January evening that was in it. Seeing as the price of a meal at Beirut Express is way more accessible than The Mermaid ever was – including a two course lunch deal for €9.99 and an Early Bird deal for €13.95 – you only have a pleasant meal to gain by giving it a go. Your presence could only help build on that atmosphere.
69-70 Dame Street, Dublin 2
01-6708242
