Paul Lambert has been subverting cocktail culture in Dublin for a while now, but he may have hit the nail on the head with the covert speakeasy sitting above Kinara Kitchen in Ranelagh. The Blind Pig, Lambert’s other furtive venture, has been setting up shop in the city centre for last two and a half years, providing prohibition era cocktails and an abundance of mixology knowledge for all those who rang the secret number. Upstairs at Kinara Kitchen still provides all those things: you’ll find the unassuming entrance posing as delivery access next door to Kinara Kitchen, and a quick ascent will transport you to a small, intimate affair with no interference from any adjacent businesses.
The menu is simple, just 10 drinks adorning the blackboard to the left of the bar and no list of ingredients as long as your arm, just the base spirit. What Lambert does is talk you through the ingredients, history and taste profile of the drink you might be looking to sample. When I arrive, my companions have plumped for a Pulp Fiction. It’s off the menu but contains Jameson and watermelon which is a concoction I’ve yet to see elsewhere and would highly recommend. Meanwhile, after requesting a gin-based drink I’m delivered a Ginger Rogers – kind of like a gin mojito. The ambiance here is really relaxed and there is only one other party occupying the bar. After a Sazerac 50/50 (cognac & rye whiskey), Corn & Oil (dark rum), Pedro’s Last Stand (mezcal) and more Pulp Fictions (they’re just that good) we cap off the night with a tasting of a special Valentine’s Day punch mix featuring whiskey and raspberry liqueur. It goes down so smoothly we briefly consider forking out for a crock of the stuff but then think the better of it. This kind of interaction between bartender and drinker is interesting without being obtrusive and you get the feeling that Lambert is genuinely interested in your opinion as you guzzle down his latest concoction. It was that, or I was two shots too deep.
Upstairs at Kinara Kitchen may be somewhat clandestine (and requires advance booking) but once you’re inside it’s a welcoming and inclusive affair. The cocktails on offer aren’t pretentious (a Flirtini was heading up the menu this time around) and change week to week. Whether you’re looking to sip some Prosecco or dive into a discussion on late 19th century mixology, Lambert is willing to engage with hardened beverage aficionados without patronising those just looking for some bubbles. Not only that, but it’ll beat the prices of its city centre competitors by a couple of euro (most drinks come in at €9). While it’s not the best place to tuck into a round of pre-drinks, this is a great place to treat yourself and receive a personalised service. Plus, everyone loves Bombay Mix.
Upstairs at Kinara Kitchen
17 Ranelagh Road,
Dublin 6
Words: Emily Carson
