Strolling down Thomas Street towards The Open Gate Brewery, Guinness’ recently opened bar in the bowels of their landmark brewery, there was a degree of cynicism on the part of myself and my companions. Requiring a booking in advance and only open two days a week between the hours of half five and half ten, the whole endeavour had the feel of a semi-permanent PR event, complete with the self-conscious pre-occupation with perceived exclusivity associated with the Irish hobnobbing circuit. On arrival, some of the expected alarm bells chime as the venue is bathed in purple light, a shadow-drenched DJ sticks to strict playlist of unremarkable hairdresser house, a photographer corners us as soon as we take a seat for an extended flash bulb assault. We wince through it before heading towards the bar to cash in the chips we were granted on entry.
For your €6 price of admission, every guest is furnished with one of these chips, entitling them to a four tasters of the various exclusive beers on offer. As we start to make small talk with one of the many barman, he speaks attentively, effusively and seemingly from a place of sincere enthusiasm for his work, giving us a full run down of tasting notes for our selected samples. We opted for their Nitro IPA (refreshing, floral and curiously creamy), Oatmeal and Vanilla Ale (a bit too sweet to drink a slew of pints of, but very tasty if you’re only having the one), Vienna Common Larger (a little wishy washy, as is often the way with lagers) and their Milk Stout (nice and robust at 6.8%, undoubtedly the star of the show).
As we worked our way through the selection on offer, and clocked that all pints further come in at a staggeringly reasonable fiver a pop, It begins to dawn on us that perhaps the Open Gate is more than merely a Diageo pushed exercise in bald commerce. The staff, not simply barstaff but individuals occupying some sort of experimental brewing ambassadorial role give off the impression of a group of long-time brewing nerds whose jobs, much to their delight, suddenly got a whole lot more rewarding.
The Open Gate Brewery is for all intents and purposes a reactionary measure, a move by the big boys to keep up with the changing tastes of general public still in the thrall of the craft beer revolution. Having been quietly tweaking unusual brews in this very room since 1909 and, in fairness, attempted to launch several in the days before everyone suddenly became an expert, Guinness have opted to throw their hat into the ring in a understandably showy though unexpectedly meaningful fashion. We were assured that more widely available beers on offer (your Smithwicks Blondes and Pale Ales and so on) are soon to be phased out in favour of brews concocted exclusively on site, with a most intriguing sounding white stout and a basil and blood orange ale slated to enter circulation in the coming weeks. Against all odds, Guinness have hit on something genuinely exciting here, deftly balancing their enviable heritage and the demands of the present marketplace. The Open Gate is worthy of visit for both locals and tourists alike.
Open Gate Brewery is open Thursdays and Fridays at 5.30pm. Booking is required, and entry costs €6.
Open Gate Brewery
St. James’s Gate, Dublin 8
www.opengatebrewery.com
Words: Danny Wilson
