A strange quirk of fate, destiny or kismet meant that I found myself reviewing a bar I was supposed to review exactly two years ago but crapped out on at the last minute, to the editor’s chagrin. And as it so happens, my substitute and saviour on that occasion was now my drinking buddy for the evening. So far, little has changed. However, over the course of two years, Dublin itself has changed plenty, and this bar at the corner of Capel Street and North King Street has had at least two identities, including Rúta, The Last Watering Hole and one variation that lasted two whole days according to our friendly bar man.
So while Beerhouse is relatively young at only about two months old and thus still trying to define its identity, it bears fairly obvious comparison to its near neighbour, The Black Sheep. More pertinently, it could be seen as the blooming of the fancy beer saga into a more populist phase beyond specialist taverns.
The interior of the front room is bright and plain, benefitting from large windows looking out onto the two streets it abuts, though lacking any particular panache in terms of décor. The now de rigeur bunch-of-random-chairs and smattering of board games are not charmless, but not particularly special. Beer-wise, Beerhouse unsurprisingly fares rather better. On tap are found, amongst others,a selection of O’Hara and Dungarvan brews. In the fridge lurk (?) a more substantial selection, including Brewdog cans and bottles. Though this is all now more commonplace, we’re promised that a wider variety is on its way in the months to follow.
Despite its name, Beerhouse does actually provide options beyond its pale ales, lagers and stout, and offers a not minute wine menu and an oddly descriptive cocktail list. While we didn’t try the former, the latter were somewhat disappointing, with no off-menu standards available, and those offered up even being mildly tepid.
Amongst other supplemental details that can and should be complimented, there was a cracking selection of music, incoherently rambling from Mac DeMarco to Spiritualized. The bar is entirely bereft of televisions, and the lengthy backroom looked like a decent spot for an extended natter under the slightly naff Blue Moon mural. Worryingly however, both the posters on the wall and PA hinted at the ghosts of singer-songwriters past and future.
All in all, it’s hard to tell if Beerhouse will have what it takes to survive where other establishments at the same venue have fallen before. It is certainly not without its charms, between the beers and space itself. But at the same time, it could be in danger of trying too hard to please too many, shying away from its billing as a purveyor of hoppy goodness. Located within spitting distance of Bolton Street, DIT and handily near for pre or post-date Parnell Street cinema, if you’re willing to walk 4/5ths of the way up Capel Street for fancy beer, why not take the extra minute and figure this place out for yourself?
199 North King St, Dublin
t:(01) 804 7023
