“Of all the pubs I’ve ever got drunk in while wearing a suit, this is this one that I would most like to get drunk in again,” comments one of our group. And despite that, its well-established reputation and its extremely central location, the Old Stand is not, on our Thursday visit at least, particularly suitish. In fact, there is a slightly more mammyish vibe to the place, ladies stopping in for gins and tonics, perhaps a single flat cap. Well-established, like we said.
This resolutely bright and clean bar and lounge has a small footprint dominated by two bars with chamfered corners and a television perched at ceiling height, with Sky Sports News’ revolving melodrama and yellow tickers on mute. Due to this particular lay-out, the Old Stand inevitably always seems quite busy, if never ruffled or hurried.
The Old Stand’s reputation as a sports bar precedes it and precedes one’s entrance, with jerseys and oval balls of rugbymen past displayed to the outer world on Exchequer Street and Andrew Street. In fact it claims to take its name from the old stand at Lansdowne Road. In my teen memories of the pre-Aviva days, they were all old stands, so which one in particular it refers to, we’re less sure. Either way, The Old Stand always strikes us as a place for doing two particular thing: watching a rugby match, or stepping out the clamour and commotion of Christmas shopping on and around Grafton Street. Or, preferably, both of those birds with one stone.
It is, however, late spring and neither of those are on the menu, figuratively. The actual menu is resolutely unreconstructed pub food, the most exotic thing available is the topically Ukrainian Chicken Kiev, which we plump for. There’s little that can go wrong on a menu like this, but similarly it is not the most thrilling, even if we are enthralled by the dumb-waiter. (Easily pleased? Us?)
Thrilling, however, is not what has kept The Old Stand as a resolute city centre favourite for so long. This is essentially the “traditional pub” that reinforces the traditions against which upstarts and modernists can define themselves. I feel slightly like I should be pulling up the collar of a Crombie and donning leather gloves as we slip out into a late spring shower after dinner, but at the same time we are never made to feel the least bit unwelcome, no doubt far spottier than our ilk have passed through these doors over its centuries of continued trade.
The Old Stand
37 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2
01-6777220
Words: Ian Lamont
