Words: Aaron Purcell Illustrations: Claire Fernandez
There is a certain trajectory followed by Irish males in the grooming department – the first can of Lynx that scalds a pre-pubescent bald armpit, cutting yourself a fish-like gill with your auld lad’s blunt Mach, the wilderness of teenage years dabbling in a variety of scents (many progress from the lighter notes of CK One) and the attempt to find that signature and often elusive haircut that can define your “look”, worryingly indelible in the minds of others.
The latter stage of this trajectory is concerned with maintaining and preserving a look you are contented with, ideally aiming to fuse the timeless nature of classic with a contemporary twist. This last stage requires much tweaking, outside assistance in the form of suitable product, and advice from those who know what they are talking about – not the placating tones of a mate or an ego-massaging offering from a family member.
A resurgence of traditional barbershops in this city raises questions about what discerning and urbane individuals are looking for with regards to keeping up their appearance. This mirrors a similar renaissance in male grooming emporiums with a nod to the nostalgic previously witnessed in London’s hipster haven Shoreditch and throughout tattooed laden Lower Manhattan. Gone are the days of the indifferent quick-fix clip, mind-numbing taxi-like chat and withered copies of tabloids, replaced by a more conscientious service. So what underpins this new movement and is it here to stay?
Questions raised and written I headed to four of the city’s most distinguished and diverse barbershops to gain insight into the realm of the razor and the menfolk that dwell there.
The Grooming Rooms – 16 South William St., Dublin 2
Joanne, could you explain the advantages of a wet shave to the uninitiated?
There is no experience like getting a hot towel shave from a professional barber, it’s all about the experience with the shave and as well as the feeling in the aftermath. We start with hot towels, this would soften up the pores, soften up the skin. We would use pre-shave oils and creams depending on skin type. Then the barbers would, depending on the skin again, do a single or double shave. Then a face massage to finish.
What is involved in a double shave?
If you had a light beard they would just need to do the one shave or if your skin is a bit sensitive, or if you would have a heavier beard, and afternoon shadow they would go that little bit closer. We cater to the individual’s needs.
Describe your clientele here.
Our clientele is very broad. We have men in their late thirties, forties, fifties and even sixties coming into us as well as the younger generation looking for the more youthful and edgier cuts. We do cater for both and get clients from across the spectrum. A lot of businessmen and grooms.
Is there an increase in younger clientele?
Yeah we have found that in the recent years. Our clientele have become a little bit younger, the hair cut is a bit more youthful. A lot of guys tend to go for the beards, the shaves, the mos have become more popular.
Due to Movember?
Yeah that’s what I think it is down to, even the media, everywhere you see designs on cups, t-shirts of the mos, so definitely it has become huge. We have people coming for their moustache wax and what not.
Is scruffy dead?
No, I think that is still there definitely. I think that kind of look will always stay amongst individual people, but I think clean shaven has become that little bit more popular. You see a lot of businessmen coming in for their tighter haircuts and the more clean shaven look to go with their persona.
Is that down to the fact people cannot afford to look unprofessional today given the job market?
Yeah that would have an impact on it as well. Definitely.
What advice would you give to a gent who is looking for a change of style?
I suppose we would offer consultations with our barbers, so if someone did want a change in style they are always very welcome to come in and have a chat with our barber and go through different looks with them. Or with the beard, go through the correct trimming process, we always welcome someone in to have a chat with one of our experienced barbers.
In your opinion what should everyman have in his grooming locker?
A good styling product and a moisturiser. A facial moisturiser preferably with SPF (sun factor protection) in it. Even though Ireland doesn’t get much sun, the rays are still affecting your skin so it is very important to use SPF in your moisturiser.
Any advice to shavers at home?
A pre-shave oil is really good. If you have a heavy beard that will help to soften the skin and the hair and act as a barrier. As well a pre-shave balm, we would always recommend a post-shave balm for after shaving so it brings down any irritation and soothes the skin. Change your razor quite often, don’t use the same razor for six months!
–> Ali’s Turkish Barbershop
