Restaurant Review: The Saddle Rooms at The Shelbourne


Posted February 10, 2015 in Restaurant Reviews

My gold-rimmed side plate bears The Shelbourne Hotel crest of the interlinked letters of ‘S’ and ‘H’ topped with a crown. Underneath the crest sits the date 1824, which is when Tipperary businessman Martin Burke first opened this hotel in numbers 27, 28 and 29 St. Stephen’s Green. His aim was to ‘woo genteel custom who wanted solid, comfortable and serviceable accommodation at a fashionable address’.

It feels right to be knocking back a half dozen Oysters Rockerfeller (€18) in the surrounds of The Saddle Room restaurant. These oysters, topped with breadcrumbs, cheese (a tangy Gruyère I think?) and chopped greens, then baked ‘til crisp, are a marvelous gateway to oysters if you’re curious but nervous about the molluscs. You’re in good hands at The Shelbourne.

We’re seated in one of the two half-circle booths near the entrance of The Saddle Rooms, perched opposite The Oyster Bar with a direct view into the open kitchen.  To me, they’re the best seats in the house; I can keep an eye on the patrons as they’re seated and I can see the full team in swing. Mostly, it’s a calm, dignified ship, the service well-mannered and welcoming.

The seared veal sweetbreads, served with a simple mustard jus, some wilted spinach and a thin disc of crispy potato is the kind of dish that I want to eat every day, forever, in small quantities of course, lest I become overpowered by umami or, you know, guilt. Sweetbreads aren’t for the faint-hearted (they’re organ meat from the thymus gland and pancreas of the calf) but the brave are well rewarded in The Saddle Rooms. Soup of the day is a less challenging but commendably creamy potato and leek soup.

The roast Kilmore Quay cod is a delicate dish with alluring saffron barley and Lambay clams. It’s composed yet compelling. Its complete opposite sits across our table in the form of the braised daube of Charleville beef which is so robust and booming, it feels like it could jump off the plate and start reciting war poems. Its sticky red wine jus is beyond intense. Sides of creamy mash, fluffy potatoes with proper skin and crunchy carrots soften the blow delightfully. Desserts of bread and butter pudding and a caramelized blood orange and cardamom panna cotta are distinguished yet comforting.

I like that a small, freshly baked loaf of crusty bread is brought to the table at the beginning of the meal. I like it less that it arrives with a chopping knife, inviting us to slice our own loaf. This is probably an attempt to help patrons slice through the formality but… I’m in The Shelbourne. I don’t want to have to lift a finger while I’m here! The butter that accompanies the loaf is unforgivably cold, creating the ultimate first world problem of butter that is too stiff to spread.

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George Orwell’s famous description of the kitchen at Hotel X in Down and Out in Paris and London indicates that a heart of a hotel can be found in its kitchen. The Shelbourne kitchen team, led by Executive Chef and Irish produce champion Garry Hughes since 2008 are perhaps a reflection of the heart of The Shelbourne.

This hotel seems to me to be unflappable; so grand and dignified. In fact, like many other business throughout the recession, its recent history has been somewhat turbulent. It has changed ownership twice in the last decade, throughout which it has been managed by The Marriott Group. There have been multi-million dollar refurbishments, reality TV shows, some good press and bad within that decade.

What does all this have to do with the food? Well, with all this change in the background, you might expect cracks to appear in the veneer. Yet the only slip-up in our dinner service is that the butter is too cold. The team should be commended for maintaining the high expectations that this historic hotel holds with its patrons.

Of course, you pay for the privilege of eating at such a poised hotel. Apart from the oysters, we’re eating from the Table D’Hote Menu which offers 3 courses at €42 after 6.45pm. Three courses, our oysters, large sparkling water (€7), a glass of Valdo Prosecco (€11.95), a glass of Sacnerre Le Fuzelle (€12.50), a non-alcoholic Glamour Gal cocktail (€8.50) and two espressos (€3.80 each) came to a total of €149.55. If you’re an early bird, however, the Pre-Theatre Menu is identical to the Tabel D’Hote and sees 3 courses priced at €29.95. Lunch at any time is 3 courses for €25.95.

Genteel might not be the first word that comes to mind when describing us modern Dubliners, but The Shelbourne remains to welcome us regardless.

The Shelbourne Hotel are hosting a special 4-course Valentine’s Tasting Menu over the Valetine’s weekend from €59 per person. Their Afternoon Tea also has a chocolate theme throughout February and March, with prices starting at €34.95 per person. Treat yo’self.

 

Words: Aoife McElwain / Photos: Killian Broderick

 

The Shelbourne Hotel

St Stephen’s Green

Dublin 2

01-6634500

www.shelbournedining.ie

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