Though we often associate going on dates with a romantic partner, the dates we have with our pals are just as important. Both scenarios require the correct environment to allow for maximum bonding. For me, the basement restaurant is best for a quiet tête-à-tête.
Suesey Street, at the corner of Leeson Street and Fitzwiliam Place, opened last year in the basement space that once housed Brasserie Le Pont. Suesey Street, which is named after what Leeson Street was known as in the Georgian heyday of the 1700s, is owned and operated by the Kelly family, with Fiona Kelly at the forefront of this business. I recognise the general manager John Healy from the TV show The Restaurant; he’s a real pro and his team looks after us beautifully throughout.
The space has been given an aesthetic make-over by interior architects O’Donnell O’Neill, whose distinctive style you might be familiar with from their work at Angelina’s, just off Baggot Street. They like copper, a lot. They’ve done a beautiful job in taking away the stiffness of a formal dining room. “The concept behind Suesey Street is to deformalise fine dining and make it an accessible, more everyday affair,” Fiona tells me. “We removed the white linen from table tops, turned the music up and the lights down.” The effect is comfortable luxury, the type of atmosphere that gives you the space to share secrets.
Head Chef Graeme Dodrill’s menu is classic with an eye for creative presentation. To start, sweet scallops (€14) are accompanied by salty samphire and crispy kale. A petite portion of pork belly (€12) boasts a perfectly crisp skin, undoing some of the damage done to this cut of meat by mediocre gastropubs in the last few years. Thin discs of salt-baked beetroot and kohlrabi are arranged prettily around thick, angular slices of duck breast as a main course (€27). Arcs of jus surround the thick, charred slices of beef sirloin peppered with tiny cèpes and crispy layers of Pommes Anna (€29). A side order of duck fat potatoes are crisp and golden, a frothy hollandaise sauce drizzled on top. They are obscenely good. A tidy Tarte Tatin is a classic caramelised apple and sticky pastry delight, while the torched marshmallow with hazelnuts and brandy shows the more creative side of the kitchen.
One teeny little fault I found was with the font used on the printed menu of the day. It wasn’t in Comic Sans or anything as horrifying as that, but it looked like it was typed up on an ageing word processor. I would also welcome more information on the menu, like where exactly the ingredients are sourced. It mentions on the menu that they’re from local producers, and that the kitchen makes all the pasta, sauces, bread and butter from scratch every day but I’d still like to see more specifics on key suppliers. It’s not a deal breaker, by any means, but the menu is one of the diner’s first impressions and this one wasn’t as chic as the rest of the experience at Suesey Street.
In summary, the laid-back decadence of this Georgian basement facilitated a great date with a friend. Suesey Street is made up of three distinct spaces; the entrance bar, the dining room and the outdoor terrace. Even if you’re not able to check out the dinner, pop down to the bar or the cozy, heated terrace for a secret cocktail some evening. The restaurant is hosting a special Valentine’s Night Dinner on Sunday 14th February. They are also currently working on introducing a new bar menu in the near future, too, so watch this space.
Suesey Street
26 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2
t: 01-6694600
Words: Aoife McElwain
Photos: Killian Broderick
