Restaurant Review: Pigeon House Clontarf


Posted April 12, 2016 in Restaurant Reviews

On a sunny spring evening, the seaside suburb of Clontarf is a swell place to find yourself. When I walk along the new shore of Bull Island, created by accident by mankind just a couple of hundred years ago, I feel connected to both the resource of the sea and the industry of the city. To my left, I see the prominent head of Howth, which sometimes seems to have its own personal spotlight of sunshine, and to my right stand the iconic Poolbeg Chimneys.

That mixture of seaside and industry is reflected in Pigeon House Clontarf on Vernon Avenue. The Poolbeg Chimneys get a nod on this neighbourhood restaurant’s wall, thanks to the framed work of Dublin-based screen printers me&him&you (www.meandhimandyou.com). Danish designed chairs, in pale wood and unobtrusive blue, provide a cool counterpoint to stark copper piping fashioned into light fittings. The overall effect is calming, even on a busy Sunday evening service.

Behind Pigeon House Clontarf is restaurateur Paul Foley and Head Chef Brian Walsh. You might know this partnership’s previous endeavour, Downstairs, which was based nearby just off the Howth Road, where they achieved a Michelin Bib Gourmand, awarded to exceptional casual dining spots. In August 2014, they closed Downstairs to move it to their new premises on Vernon Avenue. As is often the case, the refurbishment and reopening process took a lot longer than they were expecting.

In the meantime, they had fallen for a space in Delgany, County Wickow, and opened Pigeon House in October 2014 in a rustic cottage that is also home to the exemplary Firehouse Bakery, the Delgany Grocer and Roasted Brown Roasters. In January 2015, they reopened on Vernon Avenue under the name Pigeon House Clontarf. If you think it sounds like a busy time, you’d be right. “My wife gave birth to our first child, Rufus, in January 2015,” Brian Walsh tells me, “and we opened Pigeon House in Clontarf in February 2015. So, three babies in a matter of months!”

Foley and Walsh brought a lot of their team from Downstairs to both Delgany and Clontarf. David Lee has been their front of house manager since the Downstairs days. You can tell that this is an experienced team; throughout our stay we’re looked after with a superb balance of efficiency and laid-back friendliness. Head Chef Walsh spends his time between both restaurants at the moment, and has Chef Honza Kluk as his right hand man in Clontarf. The menu changes each week to reflect the seasons, and Walsh sources produce from suppliers such as the family businesses of Higgins Butchers in Sutton and Kish Fish in Smithfield.

We’re here before 6.45pm on a Sunday evening so we can order from the Neighbourhood Menu, Pigeon House’s version of the Early Bird, with three courses at €27, and two for €22. The dishes on this lean menu have been well selected to suit both conservative palates and more adventurous eaters.

PigeonHouse3

 

I particularly love my main course, a pork fillet cooked perfectly pink (as it should be), surrounded by tenderstem broccoli sprinkled in crunchy dukkah. A fluffy pile of mash, with chunks of black pudding stirred through it, makes for a great plate partner. On the side, I go for some deep-fried battered courgette fries (€4.95), which are joyously crispy on the outside and soft on the inside.

The vegetarian main is the predictable risotto, but it’s a really good risotto. Hunks of roasted Jerusalem artichokes sit alongside pickled mushrooms and crunchy hazelnuts, with the rice cooked just right, al dente. My vegetarian guest asks to leave out the Parmesan (which isn’t vegetarian because of the use of rennet in its process) and the kitchen have no qualms about accommodating the request.

Starters were a little less successful. The citrus poached trout with blood orange purée, ginger and cucumber sounded glorious on the menu but, though its presentation was very pretty, the blood orange purée was too sweet and overwhelmed the trout. Little balls of cucumber feel redundant, flavour-wise, though I do like the house-made rye crackers. The butternut squash soup, made with coconut milk, was enjoyably light but arguably a little weak in character, something a thicker consistency might have helped. Guinness bread on the side is delectably dark and sticky, and makes up for the soup’s lack of punch.

Desserts continued on the upwards trajectory of the main courses. A plate of peppered gariguette strawberries with pistachio cream simply wows us, and a plate of rhubarb, meringue and white chocolate is a refined plate of simplicity. The presentation on both desserts is beautiful, creating a sophisticated take on some familiar favourites.

The bar know what they’re at, too. A non-alcoholic watermelon daiquiri is considerately crafted, the price left off our bill (perhaps accidentally? I discovered its omission after we left the restaurant, honest!) and an Espresso Martini hit all the right notes (€8.95).

The meal was a crescendo in enjoyment, starting off well and finishing on a triumphantly high note. Which is, of course, the direction you want a meal to go in. Including a large bottle of sparkling water (€2) and a glass of Pinot Grigio (€6.50), the bill came to €76.40.

Pigeon House Clontarf

11b Vernon Avenue, Clontarf, Dublin 3

www.pigeonhouse.ie

t: 01-8057567

Serving breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner every day of the week.

Words: Aoife McElwain

Photos: Megan Killeen

NEWSLETTER

The key to the city. Straight to your inbox. Sign up for our newsletter.

SEARCH

National Museum 2024 – English

NEWSLETTER

The key to the city. Straight to your inbox. Sign up for our newsletter.