Fifteen years after Erik and Michelle Robson first established ely, they remain dedicated advocates of seasonality. We caught up with Erik recently during a brief interlude in sourcing new wines and craft beers to talk about their latest successes, the closure of ely Gastro Bar and exciting new developments in the IFSC.
For the second year in a row ely’s been placed first, second and third in Tomás Clancy’s list of best wine bars. You must be delighted with this double hat-trick?
ely has always done well in terms of recognition for its wine lists but to get one, two and three for two years in a row from Tomás in the Sunday Business Post is very rewarding. We genuinely enjoy what we do and we’re very happy to find that we’re still recognised for doing good stuff. It also puts the pressure on to keep finding wines that not only interest us but will also give our customers something new to try.
So developing the wine list is an ongoing process?
Absolutely. We’re constantly on the look out for something a little bit unusual and we do our best to go beyond the ubiquitous pinot grigio and sauvignon blanc.
Regarding the closure of the Gastro Bar is it fair to say that you’ve made the best of a difficult situation?
Well, we don’t believe in crying over spilled milk. Danske announced they were leaving the Irish market in early 2014 and the building had to be sold. When the Gastro Bar went into receivership we managed the process and were able to ensure that no jobs were lost. We gained great experience in Hanover Quay and are naturally keen to transfer that knowledge. We’re already looking at potential gastro and wine bar locations so watch this space!
ely has been in the IFSC for nearly a decade, during a time of massive change. How have these changes impacted on those coming through the door?
Back in ’06 the sun was shining, the terrace was rocking and the word recession was yet to be used. The IFSC was certainly hurting but we started to notice a lot of bright and happy new neighbours over the past twelve months. There’s definitely a new energy about and our lunches, evening and drinks sales have picked up. There’s a sense of fun, lots of banter, especially after work, and with the Convention Centre you get a lot of international delegates coming in who recommend us to friends for city breaks. There’s a lot planned for the CHQ building too so we’re really looking forward to a vibrant time.
As you say there are big plans for the redevelopment of the CHQ building. What can people expect to see there?
The guys in the CHQ have been doing a lot of travelling, visiting some of the world’s best indoor markets and food halls, including places such as Covent Garden in London and Albert Dock in Liverpool. They also have a vision for a state-of-the-art visitor centre that celebrates Ireland and the essence of being Irish. Put that all together and the footfall that the building deserves will fall into place nicely.
Tell us about the craft beers you’ve added to the range on offer.
We love our wine in ely and lament the fact that there’s no Irish wine so we naturally looked at craft beers and embraced the vast array of flavours, style and provenance on offer. Our beer offering has grown hugely and reflects feelings about wine and food i.e. everything changes with the seasons. We already do quite a lot of beers in the IFSC and we’ve been working with O’Hara’s since 2000 as well as with Erdinger and Budvar so we’re not recent converts. The gastro bar element of our Atrium Bar is set to keep growing and we’ve invested big time in state of the art draught facilities while the team in the kitchen has created some great bar bites and gastro dishes.
Speaking of which, what has the chef focused on for early 2015?
Ryan is creating low carb meals, using fruits and his homemade pickles. He’s adding some spices to those hearty dishes for the last of the cold sweep, lots of colourful root veg, game and of course the best of organic beef and pork from my Dads’ farm in the Burren. He’s patiently waiting for the new growth of spring and he’s got some great flavours, textures and colours swirling around in his head.
Sounds like a busy year ahead. Any plans for relaxation?
Both Michelle and I love a busy bar and restaurant but we also love creating spaces for people to enjoy, relax and mingle in so we have four ‘mood-boards’ currently on the go. We’re just back from NYC and going to London next week with our executive chef Ryan, head of business development Jeri and our good friend and interiors guru Eavan. We’re looking at what works and trying to keep things fresh so no kicking back just yet!
Check out ely Executive Chef Ryan Stringer’s recipe for Very slow cooked organic porchetta, soy sauce, pepperonatta & wasabi
Pork – Honey & ginger braised porchetta
Ingredients (Makes 8 portions)
1kg pink salt
5 ltrs water
300g salt
Bouquet garni of Coriander seeds, star anise, juniper berries, lemon & orange zest
Boil together for brine & allow to cool.
1 pork belly – rind on
1 whole fresh ginger root
4 dried birds eye chillies
3 star anise
2 cinnamon sticks
3 onions – chopped
2 garlic heads – split
250 ml soy sauce – light
2 ltr water
2 cans bitter
3 kitchen spoons honey
Method
Heavily season the inside of the pork with salt, pepper and soft herbs, add a layer of sliced jamon and roll. Tie with butchers string as tight as possible about an inch apart on the pork belly & add to the brine & marinade for 48hrs.
In a large roasting tray add the onions, garlic & cook.
Add the spices, ginger, water, honey, bitter & bring to the boil.
Sear pork belly on a hot pan. Add pork belly back to the tray, place in oven uncovered & cook @ 100°c for 8 hours.
When cooked, remove the pork from the tray & allow to cool. Meanwhile pass the cooking liquor through a fine chinoise, place back on the stove & correct the flavour.
Serve a good amount of the cooking liquor un-thickened or reduced as a broth.
Pepperonata
2 yellow peppers
2 red peppers
4 tbsp olive oil
1 small bunch parsley chopped
1 small bunch basil chopped
1 garlic clove chopped
4 salted anchovies
2 tbsp capers
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
Method:
Cut peppers in half and remove the seeds and white pith. Cut into 3cm squared.
Place olive oil in a pan and add the peppers. Cook over a medium heat until a slight crispness remains.
Remove any excess salt from the anchovies and chop. Halve the garlic clove and remove soul, slice into thin slithers, shred basil by hand and chop parsley fine.
Mix together and add to the peppers along with the capers and red wine vinegar. Raise the flame and cook till the liquid has evaporated and the peppers have absorbed the flavours of garlic and herbs. Allow to cool.
Place in a serving dish and serve as a side or salad.
For those who like a bit of heat with this dish Ryan recommends serving a little ramekin of wasabi paste on the side. Enjoy!
Words: Martina Murray
Pic: ely
