There’s no doubt that over the last 10 years we have had access to a much broader and diverse range of beers and beer styles. The rise of craft brewing has instilled a much needed sense of adventure amongst consumers but almost all of these craft brewers have chosen route one and brought out a version of an IPA. Although Even as an ardent fan of IPAs, they have become somewhat ubiquitous of late and there’s a fair amount of congestion on the shelves. If you’re interested in trying a genuinely distinct style of beer that is often overlooked, have a look through the shelves for Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier otherwise known as smoked beer.
Up until the end of the 18th century almost all beers would have been smoked to some extent, as the flavour is a direct result of the traditional method of drying the malt. Before the introduction of the modern kiln during the industrial revolution, malted barley had to be dried by either using sunlight or more commonly by using an open flame. For malt that was dried using open flame the smoke produced during the prices would make its way into the malt and its presence would be evident in the final product. The introduction of the modern kiln meant that an indirect heat source was used which heated the malt in a more even manner and any smoke that did occur could be funnelled off, thus preventing it from contaminating the malt. This traditional method of open flame malting is still used by many Scottish whisky and Irish whiskey distilleries, although they use peat instead of wood which gives that characteristic ‘peaty’ taste.
Smoked beer fell out of favour with the advances in malting technology but the city of Bamberg in Bavarian region of Upper Franconia has been brewing rauchbier since the Middle Ages and has maintained the traditional open-flame method, making it the undisputed epicentre for rauchbier. The Aecht Schlenkerla brewery is probably the best-known producer of the style and insist on seasoning the beech wood prior to use to ensure the right amount of moisture and smoke can be obtained. During the brewing process the yeast absorbs a lot of the smokey notes from the malt so Aecht Schlenkerla re-pitch the yeast in subsequent brews to ensure the ideal smokiness in achieved.
Pouring dark and clear with an almost crema-like head, there is an intriguing aroma reminiscent of – seriously – bacon. On first taste it’s surprisingly light and sweet. I had been expecting tar and tobacco but instead found dark chocolate. Although you certainly know you’re drinking a smoked beer, the smokiness is prominent but not overpowering which is testament to the skill of the brewmaster, one of brewing’s more unusual but delicious offerings.
Correction: In our review last month of Hitachino White Ale, we mistakenly pointed those curious to find it to the wrong location. Yamamori hold the import license for the entirety of the Hitachino range, so pop into Yamamori Noodles or Izakaya on South Great Georges Street, or Yamamori Sushi or Tengu on Ormond Quay if you’re looking to try this delicious ale.
Words: Greg McElherron
Photo via Flickr user George M. Groutas
